町の川沿いに、百年以上続く味噌の蔵がある。By the river in the town there is a miso brewery that has carried on for more than a hundred years.大きな杉の桶が十二本、暗い蔵の中に並んでいる。Twelve great cedar vats stand in rows inside the dark store.今の蔵元は五代目の樋口さんで、まだ三十五歳である。The present owner is Mr Higuchi, the fifth generation, and he is still thirty-five.三年前の春に、父親から蔵を引き継いだ。In the spring three years ago, he took the brewery over from his father.
味噌づくりで、いちばん気を使うのは温度だという。In making miso, he says, the thing that takes the most care is temperature.麹を作る三日のあいだ、室の温度は一度の幅で管理する。For the three days the koji is made, the temperature of the culture room is held within one degree.上がりすぎれば麹菌が弱り、下がりすぎれば育たない。Too high and the koji mould weakens; too low and it will not grow.「この三日でしくじれば、それまでです」"If I get these three days wrong, that is the end of it."樋口さんは、そう言って室の戸をそっと閉めた。Saying so, Mr Higuchi closed the door of the culture room softly.
桶に仕込んだあとは、一年から二年かけて寝かせる。Once it is laid down in the vats, it is left to mature for one to two years.その間、蔵の中の温度と湿度を毎日記録する。During that time, the temperature and humidity inside the store are recorded every day.昼と言わず夜と言わず、樋口さんは蔵に下りて温度計を見る。Day or night alike, Mr Higuchi goes down into the store to look at the thermometer.父親の時代は、紙の帳面に鉛筆で書いていた。In his father's day, the figures were written in pencil in a paper ledger.今は、蔵の四か所に小さな計器を置いて、数字が手元に届くようにした。Now he has set small instruments in four places in the store, so that the numbers reach him where he is.
去年の夏、その計器が役に立った。Last summer, those instruments proved their worth.八月のある晩、蔵の奥の温度だけが急に上がったのである。One evening in August, the temperature at the back of the store alone rose sharply.樋口さんは、真夜中に自転車で蔵まで走った。Mr Higuchi cycled to the store in the middle of the night.川側の窓が、強い風で少し開いていた。The window on the river side had been pushed slightly open by a strong wind.蒸し暑い空気が入り込み、桶の表面に白いものが浮き始めていた。Humid air had got in, and something white had begun to appear on the surface of a vat.
二年近く寝かせてきた桶である。It was a vat that had been maturing for nearly two years.ここで手を抜けば、それまでだ。If he cut corners here, that would be the end of it.樋口さんは、表面の層を一晩かけて取り除いた。Mr Higuchi spent the whole night removing the layer from the surface.朝になって、父親が様子を見に来た。When morning came, his father arrived to see how things stood.「だめだったら、もう一度仕込み直すまでだ」"If it's no good, we'll simply lay it down again."父はそれだけ言って、帰っていった。That was all his father said, and then he went home.
桶の中の味噌は、結局、無事だった。The miso in the vat was, in the end, unharmed.秋に桶を開けると、色も香りも例年どおりだった。When the vat was opened in autumn, both the colour and the aroma were as in other years.取引先の料理屋からも、味が変わったという話は出なかった。Nor did the restaurants they supply ever mention any change in the taste.樋口さんは、その晩のことを記録の最後に短く書き残した。Mr Higuchi wrote a short note about that night at the end of his records.
この経験から、蔵では一つ決まりが増えた。From this experience, one more rule was added at the brewery.夏のあいだは、窓の鍵を毎日二人で確かめる。Through the summer, two people check the window locks every day.平日と言わず休日と言わず、だれかが必ず蔵に入る。Weekday or holiday alike, somebody always goes into the store.「百年の桶も、一晩の油断で駄目になればそれまでですから」"Even hundred-year-old vats are finished if one night's carelessness ruins them."樋口さんは、そう言って笑った。Mr Higuchi said so, and laughed.
今年、蔵は見学を受け入れ始めた。This year, the brewery began accepting visitors.子どもたちが桶の列を見上げて、声を上げる。Children look up at the row of vats and cry out.「中はどうなっているの」と聞かれると、樋口さんは温度計を見せる。When they ask what it is like inside, Mr Higuchi shows them the thermometer.数字が並んだ小さな画面を、子どもたちは真剣にのぞき込む。The children peer in earnest at the small screen with its row of figures.説明がうまくできなければ、見せるまでだと樋口さんは言う。If he cannot explain it well, he says, he will simply show them.桶の木の目には、百年分の色がしみ込んでいた。Into the grain of the vats' wood, a hundred years of colour had soaked.